Linen

Linen is spun from the bast fibres of the flax plant. Those fibres are long, hollow and irregular in thickness, which is why linen behaves unlike any other cellulosic: it wicks moisture quickly, releases it just as quickly, and carries a natural slub that reads as texture rather than as a fault. The same irregularity is why linen should be assessed by hand and drape, not by a photograph.

Weight is the decision that drives everything else. Below 120 GSM linen becomes semi-sheer and belongs in blouses, scarves and layered dresses. Between 140 and 200 GSM sits the working range for shirting, dresses and unstructured jackets. Above 250 GSM linen turns architectural — canvas, upholstery and structured outerwear. Blending changes the equation again: cotton softens the hand and reduces creasing, viscose adds fluidity and drape, and both make the cloth more forgiving on a production line.

Creasing is not a defect in linen; it is the fibre doing what flax does. Finishing decides how much of it reaches the customer. A soft or enzyme wash relaxes the yarn and gives the fabric its lived-in hand immediately, while a crisp finish holds body for tailored shapes. Specify the finish at quotation stage — it changes hand, shrinkage and the way the garment ages.