Shirting

Shirting is not a fibre but a specification: lightweight, closely constructed cloth engineered to sit against skin, take a collar and hold a press. The number that matters most is yarn count. A 2/100s two-fold yarn produces a fine, smooth, lustrous cloth; a 40s single produces a robust, everyday shirt at a fraction of the cost. Two customers asking for cotton poplin at 120 GSM can be asking for fabrics separated by a factor of three in price, and the yarn count is what separates them.

Construction sets the character on top of that. Poplin is a tight plain weave with a fine crosswise rib: crisp, smooth and formal. Oxford uses a basket weave, often with a coloured warp against a white weft, giving a visible texture and a more casual, durable cloth — the reason oxford belongs on a button-down and poplin on a dress shirt. Twill drapes more softly and resists creasing, which suits business shirts worn all day. Linen and linen-cotton shirting bring texture and warm-weather performance.

For volume shirt production the finish is where quality is won or lost. Easy-care and non-iron finishes reduce creasing but can affect hand and tensile strength; a stretch shirting with two percent elastane changes fit and comfort but must be confirmed for shrinkage. Collar and cuff interlining should be selected alongside the cloth, not after it — a fine poplin with the wrong fusing will bubble after washing.